Usually my friends keep asking why am I so awesome, but one day a friend asked my why I always put my speedlight on camera, despite it was broad daylight and my flashlight cannot do high speed sync.
We learned that high-speed sync speedlight will allow you to catch the light, even when light intensity is abundant. Unfortunately my speedlight is not that great. I love it and it’s very helpful when I’m shooting indoor. I cannot afford fancier one, but I keep trying to exploit to compensate the gap.
How to make it work with high shutter speed?
Simply raise the light intensity to max or almost max, depending on how far the model is standing at. Bend the flash head pointing directly to the model.
How does it work? Well, increasing the intensity means prolonging the flash duration. Absolutely we are not preserving battery and waste too much power compared to amount that can be captured by camera. Overusing it can fry your speedlight as well, so… don’t do machine gun snapping.
Basics: During daylight, object may be darker than the background. If we set the metering value at skin exposure, the background may be whited out, OE. On picture above, exposure is adjusted to capture the background well, leaving the model slightly underexposed. This is where the flash compensated the light.
This case: As I explained a bit before, generic flash (mine) will work only at 1/125 speed, that’s why some camera models lock speedlight use shutter speed set to higher than 1/125. You need to unlock it first! Pointing speedlight head at the same direction with lens is usually avoided, but in this case, don’t worry too much because the sunlight will dominate the illumination anyway. You still need to adjust the intensity of speedlight depending on the distance, though.
Kit used: Sigme 105mm (borrowed it), Nissin speedlight
(note: this time I really had to drag my butt to start learning writing in English. It’s not that I think my English is great, it’s totally the opposite.)